Tuesday, June 28, 2011

The Girls' Reform School

The Girls’ Reform School

I got the opportunity to view the Girls’ Reform School on the Industrial Children’s Home complex on Thursday, but there was little to report. Unlike the Boys’ Remand Home, the Girl’s Reform School is not a temporary confinement. The girls at the Reform School have already been sentenced and it is here that they serve their time, normally for a few years of rehabilitation and vocational training.

Because we were just orienting ourselves to the agency, we participated in the girls’ activities with them. I especially enjoyed learning how to make bread. It was so relaxing. The tasks of cooking always slow me down, causing me to be more present in the moment, to utilize all my senses. At first the girls snickered at my kneading, but I eventually got right. I felt a real sense of satisfaction, despite the simplicity of the task. For the rest of our day, we interacted with the girls as best we could (language barriers were a serious issue) through playing games with them.

They only had two games. One seemed to be an extra large checkerboard, and the other seemed to be mancala- but of course, it was not to be so straightforward. The checker board game was actually called “gum” and had many different rules, although the main aims were the same. The mancala-like game was not given a name and the rules were completely different. We had a good laugh over my attempts to learn the “new” rules.

We spent the last few hours of our day at the Girls' Reform School sitting in chairs and watching the girls practice manicures and pedicures, as a part of their vocational training. They also have vocational training in catering, dressmaking, and even plumbing! It is fantastic that the girls have the opportunity to learn a vocation while serving their time, since it seems to me that the majority of their crimes were motivated directly by poverty.

However, while watching the girls work, the nail technician who was teaching the girls had a four year old son who kept hitting everyone. I tried to entertain him so that he would stop, but he was very hyper and he seemed to know that his mother was preoccupied. By the time this small boy began to scratch me on purpose with his long nails, I was basically over the experience. The child was out of control (he told me he had “pleeenti brodas” with whom he practiced wrestling at home). But I get the impression that parents have a cultural expectation that others should discipline their children if they misbehave towards you. I am not comfortable with that- especially because the discipline here is normally physical.

All in all, I did not feel that I had contributed much as a social worker because of the language barrier and because of the vocational nature of the school. The girls are meant to be kept busy throughout the day with their vocational training, none of which I know anything about. Very little academic education occurs. And, based on the case files I read, the “counseling” sessions seem to consist of reminding the girls to behave upon their return home. Although I enjoyed my time at the Girls’ Reform School, I knew this was not meant to be my final placement.

Cultural Challenges

Cultural Challenges

I spent one day at my original placement agency, the Catholic Action for Streetchildren. It is a drop in center for children who live on the streets. Because the street children are unaccustomed to schedules and being told what to do, it is very unstructured. All activities are totally voluntary. Therefore, a large part of the work is simply hanging out with the children, talking to them, and establishing a relationship in the hopes that they will open up to you or reach out for more services. The drop in center provides a safe place for the children during the day, but it closes at four. Children must demonstrate they are serious about learning a trade before the enter will sponsor their housing and education.

Although the work at the Catholic Action for Streetchildren is very important, the agency was a three-hour bus ride from my hostel, through a lot of bumpy dirt roads. Because of the car accidents I have experienced, my back can be sensitive. By the time I returned, My back was in a lot of pain, and I spent most of that night crying in my cot. I didn’t know how I could manage that drive every day for six weeks.

However, Dr. Sossou (our professor) needed to move a few other students anyways, so she offered to move me to the same location the girls were now going to attend. The Industrial Home for Children is only one hour away, so the bus ride was much easier on my back and I did not experience any serious pain.

Luckily, it seems that I can gain more social work-specific skills at the Children’s Industrial Home than at the Catholic Action for Streetchildren. so I really appreciate Dr. Sossou’s willingness to be flexible. I could not have asked for a more attentive and caring professor.

My new placement at the Industrial Home for Children actually consists of three separate agencies within one small compound. The compound as a whole is referred to as The Industrial Home for Children, and within the compound there is the Remand Home for Boys, the Home for Abused Children, and the Reform School for Girls. We will the rest of this week orienting ourselves to each agency. For the rest of our time here, we will be on a rotation, with one student tackling each agency on her own for one week. Therefore, I will spend one week at the Remand Home for Boys, one week at the Home for Abused Children, and one week at he Reform School for Girls.

Yesterday was our first day, and we were oriented to the Remand Home for Boys. This agency is meant as a temporary residence for boys who have been arrested, are facing charges, and awaiting their court date or sentencing. As in the United States, juveniles are not put in jail with adults, so while this is not technically called a “jail”, it is a “secure location” (complete with locks and bars), meant to ensure the boys do remain in custody while they follow through their legal issues.

When we arrived, the boys were in a classroom that was basically a screened in porch with a tin roof. The boys sat at beat up desks and shared ancient textbooks. When we (three young women) entered the classroom, all the boys stood up and announced, “Good morning!” in unison. Then, each boy was instructed to stand up and greet us, telling us a little bit about themselves as individuals. It was funny to me that instead of citing their interests, the boys announced the lengths of their limbs, their facial features, and the color of their skin (either “fair”, “chocolate”, or “dark”, all to describe different shades of African complexions).

After introductions, the boys did English exercises, which they gave to us to correct and grade. One boy slipped me a note, announcing his name and requesting my cell phone number and Facebook information-“so we can be friends”, he’d written beside an erased “I can be your boyfrend…”

I kept the note because it made me laugh, and also because I did not want to get him into trouble with his regular teachers. But I did tell the boy that it was inappropriate to ask a teacher for such information. He turned pink in the cheeks but still grinned at me shyly.

Next the boys did a reading lesson from their shared textbooks on “Animals of Ghana”. I was impressed by the teaching skills of their instructor, a short, older man named Mr. Abugadou. He spoke in a loud, clear voice in perfect English but with the thick Ghanaian accent native to this country. He called on the boys constantly, thus forcing them to stay attentive and involved. If a boy laid his head down or began laughing, he would cuff them lightly on the head or shoulders to gain their attention, clearly with no intention of hurting or punishing them. It reminded me of the way a father would good-naturedly swat at his mischievous son. The boys responded to him with attentive attitudes, participation, and respect.

It seemed ironic to me that the boys at the Remand Home, all of whom were facing criminal charges, were significantly better behaved as a class than most American high-school classrooms.

After class, the boys went to have lunch and to take a nap in their dorm, which was a long bare room with a concrete floor and a bars. When we returned, we were assigned to take “interviews” with the boys, which would contain the basic information about the boys (name, age, etc.) and an account of what had caused them to be in their present situation.

This is where this blog (finally) gets interesting. I thought I had already experienced culture shock (from the poverty to the open sewage, many things had already been challenging on this trip), but I do not think I appreciated the meaning of that phrase until the interviews were being conducted.

I was SHOCKED by the things the boys had been charged with- not because their misdeeds were so deplorable, but because their misdeeds were so menial that in the United States I don’t think they would even warrant police intervention, much less arrest.

The boys’ offences included getting a girl pregnant. This was referred to as “defilement”, despite the fact that the girl admitted the sex was not forced but that the two had a relationship. Another boy was awaiting sentencing because he had stolen rice.

In the case of another, the boy was charged with threatening his father with a machete. That does sound bad, but the boy told us his father had beaten him so badly with the cane across his back that the cane broke. His father chose this punishment in response to the boy having a friend over to the house without permission. After the cane broke, the boy got a chance to run away and grabbed the machete in hopes of scaring his father so that he wouldn’t get another weapon and continue the beating.

Even more shocking than the boys’ menial offences were the attitudes of the instructors (the very same ones I had admired earlier in the morning). They called the boys liars directly to their faces, and berated the boy charged with defilement by asking him over and over again who he had fucked (direct quote). One of these instructors was the same elderly teacher who I had respected so much in the classroom for his firm but caring attitude towards the boys, his skilled teaching, and his energetic commitment to education.

Later that afternoon, this same instructor asked us (with some hesitation) if we spank our children in the U.S. We said yes, some people do. “But what do you do if the child calls the authorities?” he asked us.

I explained that CPS must be able to see a mark on a child or significant signs of neglect before the police would be involved.

“What if the marks are only on their palms?” he asked.

He explained that he had caned two boys on their open palm, and that somehow photographs of the marks got out. Many people were angry with him, and he didn’t understand why. Ghana is a very religious society, and he noted the quote from the Bible, “Spear the rod, spoil the child.” As much as I wanted to jump down this man’s throat for practicing violence against children, it seemed clear to me that this man truly believed he had been hitting the boys for their own good. He seemed confused and hurt by the reaction of the “mob” that had spoken out against him.

The last interview was with a boy who was charged with making marijuana cookies and getting kicked out of class by a teacher because he was visibly high. During the interview, the instructor told the boy that he had to quit using marijuana, because it would eventually cause him to go mad and want to kill his own loved ones. He told the boy he could end up living in a slum in Accra, reffered to as “Sodom and Gomorrah”, because “dat is weh all the homosexuals, crack smok-ahs, and usahs of marijuana belong”. I was horrified by the idea that these three types of people would be grouped together as untouchables and collectively kicked out of society. But in Ghana, it seems all three types of “offendahs” are considered to be of equally unforgivable depravity, and it is the cultural view that the "deviants" deserve to be isolated from the rest of society.

At the end of the day, I was left to reconcile my conflicting feelings about the Boys’ Remand Home and its staff. The attitudes of the staff did not seem indicative to me of hatefulness or violent tendencies. In fact, it seemed clear that the staff cared for the children very much and wanted the best for them. Their attitudes instead seemed to be a clear reflection of the cultural positions towards delinquent children, punishment, drug use, and homosexuality. There is desperate need for societal education on such topics. I spoke with my professor, and she reminded me that Ghana is still developing. Things are beginning to progress in some areas, but very slowly.

There are so many times I have been angry with how America addresses those same issues, but I can say this: Today has left me with a renewed sense of gratitude for all those Americans who came before me and worked so hard to overcome ingrained societal obstacles, all in order to move our country forward towards enduring humanitarian advancement.

Sunday, June 19, 2011

Lazy Sunday


Tomorrow we begin our practicums with a tour of our agencies, but today we had no planned activities. I tried to sleep in as late as possible, but between the roosters, the Islamic call to prayer, and the early morning dance parties people seem to have in the dorms, it wasn’t really possible. I finally got up, and to my happy surprise Zach was on Skype. However, as soon as we began talking, my Internet card ran out and he abruptly disappeared from my screen. I cried from a sudden and overwhelming sense of homesickness.

After a few moments of hearing myself sob, I thought, “Get it together, Catron.” So I got washed, got dressed, and put on some music. I organized my room and felt proud of myself, because I only allowed myself be a total baby for a few minutes (today).

The other girls began to wake up. We were all in need of items and groceries for our rooms, so we shared a taxi to the Accra Mall. There is a grocery store called Shop-Rite, and a Wal-Mart like store called Games (don’t ask me why, I don’t get it either).

At Games, we were able to find egg crates for our terrible cots, and a replacement pillow for the flat excuse for a pillow that was on the terrible cot.

At Shop-Rite, I was amazed at how few brands were also in America. Some items are the same brand but have a different design. I never realized how much local market research must go on, even in a small country in Africa.

I triumphantly found cheap water, yogurt, fruit, Coke Light (the diet coke of Ghana), and even bug spray to combat the critters in our hostel. The ant situation is out of control. Most of the other girls laugh at my attempts to sanitize our floor. They have all travelled extensively, and seem to think that I am somehow lessening the experience of Ghana. But at the same time, they will all probably have more bugs in their room than is absolutely necessary. : )

Outside the mall, our taxi driver good-naturedly haggled us over the price of a ride, saying, “You Ah-mer-chans only shop. Too much! Too much shopping! Look at all your eye-tems, too many eye-tems! Hiyah prices foh you!”

We comprised on a price and got in. There was a Ghanaian flag and an American flag hanging on the dash, and a hand written message on the mirror, which read, “Witches and wizards, please leave the poor cursed driva alone!”

“Do you like Obama?” I asked the poor cursed driva.

“Oh yes! Oh yes! I loooove heem! Ohhhhhhh, BAHmah!” he replied, grinning broadly and laughing out loud. He suddenly became serious when he asked, “Do you like Oh-bahmah?

“Oh yes,” I assured him. “I voted for Obama.”

“Very good, very good! Ohhhhhhh, BAHmah!” Our conversation continued onto the subject of whether or not we were married, which comes up everywhere we go. It seems that Ghanaian men think all white women are very rich, and so they are eager to marry us. This seems crazy to me on account of the raw, stunning beauty of Ghanaian women, which makes me feel like a plain child in comparison.

We made it back to the Bani Hostel and unloaded our eyetems. Now I am cozy in my newly-comfortable cot, feeling very satisfied with my day. I will rest well tonight, and I hope to “keep it together”- at least until after our agency tour tomorrow.

Saturday Night at Rhapsody

Dr. Sussou’s niece, Edith, took us American girls out for a wild night in Ghana. I knew we were in trouble after the seven of us poured into the car (meant for four), and Edith (who was driving) asked us to find the bottle of wine in the back.

Edith had brought her friend Emma, and both women were incredibly beautiful. Ghanaian women have exquisite features and unbelievable figures. Their makeup was applied brightly, and their outfits were very sexy. I already felt like a total hillbilly, but it was confirmed after I got out of the car at the club parking lot.

Emma told me she hoped I was not wearing “those shoes” (Nike flip-flops) into the club. Now, in my defense, I do have a twisted ankle so I really needed to be as comfortable as possible. Plus, I was not planning on dancing or picking up a date. I had no other shoes, so Emma just sighed and lead us to the door of the club, where the bouncer confirmed my hillbilly status again. “You ah not ALLOWED to weh such shoes een the club,” he informed me, in a slightly disgusted tone.

Edith ran out to her car, where she had a pair of beautiful white gladiator sandals with gold detail. I quickly switched shoes, and we got in. The club was very modern, but very strange to me because of the large tvs which screened images of white women in lingerie all night long. Emma and Edith were amazing dancers and insisted that we join them on a mostly empty dance floor. I drank one delicious daiquiri, and took lots of photos of the girls dancing.

Around one, my ankle was really hurting and I was very tired. A few other women from my hostel were also ready to go home, but Edith insisted that we go on to another club. “You will thank mee, you do not know Ghanaian fuhn!”

I tried to explain that we really appreciated her hospitality, but that we were still jet lagged and needed sleep. “You are making mee very sad,” she pouted. “Why do you want to make mee sad? I thought, you are making my ankle very sad.

Although I kept insisting that some of us really wanted to go home, Emma simply refused to take us home or even to let us out of the car so we could get our own taxi. I was feeling beyond frustrated when we were pulled over- by the Accra Police. (Sidenote: everyone I’d spoken to advised me to avoid the police at all costs, because they are very corrupted.) Emma had had too much to drink, we had too many people in the car, and if that wasn’t enough… her tags were expired.

“This is very serious,” said the officers.

I couldn’t stop looking at the sticks on their backs. These men could keep us here for hours, or days. We might be arrested. This could be the end of my trip, I thought angrily.

“We ah begging you, deeah offisas. I will goh Mohnday, yes massa, and renew de tag. Please meesta offisas, we ah begging you,” sang out Emma and Edith. They were very flirtatious with the police, laughing up into their stern faces. I thought their behavior was a result of their drinking, and I was afraid they were angering the officers further.

After about ten minutes of back forth between them, Emma reached out and grabbed the hands of one cop. She looked up into his eyes, giggled coquettishly, and batted her eyelashes. She’d slipped him five cedi (about three American dollars), and he examined it.

“Now you can goh. Goh, goh. Get out of hea, bad gahls. Good bye, ladieees!”

***

We drove on to Osu, the wealthier and trendier part of Accra. My relief over not being arrested did not last long. The streets around the second club were jammed with hundreds of cars and pedestrians. I saw many small, unkempt children wandering in crowds, begging for money. One little boy reminded me of my brother at a younger age, with his small, thin fame, caramel skin, and dark features. He was about eight and dressed in rags, opening car doors for the glamorous men and women entering the club in hopes of a tip. His right eye bore a large purple bruise.

I was advised not to give to begging children, by a professor at UK who had lived in Ghana for many years. She told me that most street children run in groups organized by older teens or adults, who take the alms from the children, barely feed them, and often beat them.

It felt impossible for me to stay there any longer, let alone to enter the club where we had just arrived. My dear roommate sensed my exhaustion and pulled Edith aside, trying to explain that we really needed to go now. Edith was angry with us and would not hug us goodbye, but we left anyways. Our taxi was stuck in the street for about ten minutes because of a fistfight up the road. When we finally drove, I tried to turn back, but I couldn't find the little boy in the swarming chaos.

Although we got back to the dorm around two, and although I was completely emotionally and physically exhausted, I could not sleep until after four. The image of the thin, beaten boy in rags kept popping up every time I shut my eyes, and I couldn’t sleep for wondering where, or if, he might get find some rest.

Friday, June 17, 2011

6/17

All I can say about the plane ride was that it was very difficult. Crying babies, cramped spaces, twisted ankle… and eleven hours. By the time we exited the plane, my ankle was so swollen and stiff that I was offered a wheelchair by the airport staff. It looks pretty ugly, but the more I walked the less pain I was in. Michelle, as usual, was a great friend who waited on me and even carried my bags (in addition to her own!).

The airport was very different than ours. Bare bones, I would say. It was clean but quite small and there was no extraneous furniture or places for people to sit. However, it was staffed very well and once we got our bags from the baggage terminal, staff helped us get it to the bus.

Dr. Sossou, who is leading this trip, met us and allowed us to use her phone to contact family and let them know we had arrived safely. I called Zach, but couldn’t stay on too long because the other women also needed the phone.

I spent the rest of the day trying to find a way to communicate, with little luck. I have very limited internet access because I have to pay for it, and because the service is spotty. My cell is not working at all, although I hope this will be corrected in the next few days, as we paid for some service.

We unpacked. Our room is really large, with big closets for us both. We have a small balconey, and are very close to our communal bathroom at the end of the hall. I will say that the rooms could be cleaner, but they are not disgusting either. The bathroom situation is what I think will bother me the most about Ghana, because the toilets don’t like to flush and the water is not heated., plus our bathroom is crawling with ants… This is as close to camping as I ever intend to get. : )

We met Francis, a gentleman who works at the hostel, who was willing to show all of us American students around all day. He was nothing but respectful, helpful, and kind. He gave us a tour of the mall and outdoor market, asking us continuously, “Does this make you happy? Are you bored? Are you sad? Be happy, you are in Ghana! I want for you to be happy...” in the most genuine tone, repeatedly throughout out trips.

Francis took us to an outdoor bar in the heart of the market. The outdoor market was very different, consisting of hundreds of small shacks all running together in a large circle churning with traffic. It was hot and dark, and there were little kittens running around the dirt floor of the bar. (I have yet to see a pet, but there are a lot of strays here in Accra). Francis seemed to find it curious that I kept cooing at the kittens, but he did not say anything or make fun of me. Instead, he told us about how he was working at the Bani Hostel in order to save enough money to continue his university studies in political science. He explained that it was very difficult to collect the funds, but he still wanted to pursue his education.

When we sat down at the table, large plastic bowls of water were set down for us to wash our hands in. We ordered our meal, without actually knowing what it would be since the names for food are different. Our plate turned out to be fried dough and spicy tilapia. Francis assured me that it was proper to eat with your hands, so I dug in. ‘WAIT!” he said. “Your hands, your hands…”

“I washed!” I insisted. After a few moments we figured out my faux pas, using my left hand to eat with, which is considered impolite. Once I explained to Francis that we did not have this rule in the U.S., he only laughed and said not to worry, not to worry.

Michele and I received a large plate directly in front of us. We did not understand that the plate we were served was met for our entire table, which included Francis. After eating our fill of the delicate but spicy hot fish and dough, we looked up at Frances, who was sitting across from us looking amused. We asked him where his food was. He shyly gestured toward the ravaged plate.

We apologized profusely, but he did not care. He attitude of giving did not seem like a strict cultural adherence, but rather a genuine lack of concern for his appetite over ours. “I am happy that you like it so!” he announced, before plunging his hands into the remains of the fish.

Trying to Get to Ghana

6/16/2011

I’m working on this entry at the Atlanta airport, between my flight from Lexington and my flight to Accra. I cannot believe I am already gone from Kentucky! So far there are three young women travelling with me from UK to Accra, and they are all lovely. I am especially grateful for my friend Michelle, who is also my classmate and will be my roommate. She has a very calm, kind, and organized way about her, and that puts my mind at ease.

In classic Chris Catron style, I fell down the steps of my apartment trying to carry too much to the car at once. Nothing was broken, but the pain of a twisted ankle has distracted me from the pure panic I had been feeling over missing my family and friends. In truth, it was actually a lucky fall, because I could have really been hurt and unable to travel as a result of it but instead I just have a little swollenness. I’m hoping to see a doctor on Saturday, if possible.

***

The flight is very long. I feel like it will never end. When I look outside my window, I see the same view of the moon, hour after hour without change, in the same position in the sky. The pain medication I had taken after my fall this afternoon has worn off, and I miss Zach very much. Hopefully I will catch some sleep soon.

Tuesday, June 14, 2011

Getting Ready for Ghana

Welcome to my blog!

I have never kept a real blog before, but this summer I am going on my first international adventure to Accra, Ghana, with the University of Kentucky School of Social Work. I wanted to write each day in order to remember everything, and blogging seemed like a great way to share it with all the people in my life who are interested.

Right now, my apartment looks like a bomb exploded. My fiance, Zach, is going crazy trying to remember every little thing I might need. We are also trying to wrap up our wedding planning, but it's difficult with the busy semester we've had in addition to planning the Ghana trip. My fiance, friends, and family are all going to sort out the last details of our wedding while I am away. I cannot wait to come back and get married... But first, I have work to do.